Explore Beaver Island for a unique perspective on life
By Bill Bailey, Rear Commodore / Port Captain, Elk Rapids, Mich. (M-7)
Beaver Island is the antithesis of the typical resort harbor.
There are no shoulder-to-shoulder crowds, no row after row of tourist souvenir shops, no high-end brand name clothing stores. What you will find is a nice small town with a rich history (it had a king!), a couple of lighthouses, sandy beaches, a Big Rock, a Big Tree, some nice restaurants, a great bakery, a nice supermarket and some very friendly people with a sense of humor.
Take a short sail or a dinghy ride to Garden Island where you will find nice walking trails and a Native American burial ground. St. James Harbor (M-2) is on the northeast side of Beaver Island and is entered from the east. There are two marinas (north and south). Both are DNR harbors and under the same harbormaster. You may anchor in the harbor, but be careful if you anchor near the north marina: the center of the bay is shallow, so go all the way to the city docks of the south marina before turning north.
The town
St. James Township is the village center of Beaver Island. Near the north marina, don’t miss breakfast or lunch at Dalwhinnie Bakery and Deli for some great pastries and good deli food. It is next to McDonough’s Market, a complete grocery store.
Near the south marina, there is a well-stocked hardware store. The famous Shamrock Bar, the oldest food and drink establishment on the island, is across the street from the ferry dock. It has been the site of trials, weddings, funerals and parties since 1935 and is an island favorite. Ice cream can be found at Daddy Franks, which also offers burgers and sandwiches.
Restaurants a little farther from town feature anything from pizza to fine dining. Some offer shuttle service. Stoney Acre Grill and Pub is a family-style restaurant popular with locals and visitors alike. It’s also the home of Donegal Danny’s, an Irish pub with live music, dancing, and sing-alongs and, of course, beer.
Beaver Island Lodge offers Sunset Dining featuring a menu of French cuisine and local specialties. Shuttle service to and from the marinas and ferry dock is available. Circle M is another family restaurant and bar about a mile and a half out of town. For coffee lovers there’s the Paradise Bay Coffee Shop near the airport.
A bit of history
Beaver Island has a rich history of Mormon settlers and Irish immigrants. James Strang broke away from the main Morman church and led a group of followers to Beaver Island in the mid-1800s. He steadily assumed more and more power, was elected to the Michigan Senate, and eventually declared himself king.
Most non-Mormons left the island during this time. King Strang’s reign lasted only about eight years and ended when he was assassinated by two disgruntled followers.
Soon afterward, the Mormons were driven from the island by a mob from Mackinac Island, who were interested in the land and the rich fishing grounds. Some of the new settlers were from Ireland and would write home about the New Emerald Isle.
Over the years, Beaver Island became a mostly Irish settlement. Many of the family names today have an Irish flavor. You don’t want to miss the Mormon Print Shop Museum’s great exhibits and historical displays.
A good read is the book “A Child of the Sea; Life Among the Mormons” by Elizabeth W. Williams. Mrs. Williams’ husband was the lighthouse keeper on Beaver Island in the 1870s. She took over his duties when he died. Later, she became the keeper of the Little Traverse Light in Harbor Springs, Mich. In her autobiography, she describes what it was like to live on Beaver Island during the Mormon times, and the daily life of a lighthouse keeper.
About the area
Within walking distance of the town is an interesting toy shop and museum that is sure to bring back memories. It has vintage metal airplanes, bikes, ships and other toys. Besides the displays, the shop is jammed with toys for sale, some costing as little as 10 cents. An art gallery is in the back of the shop, where local artists display their work.
Farther down the road is the Marine Museum. It tells the story of Beaver Island maritime history. It has information on boatbuilding, and displays of artifacts and memorabilia from sea captains and fishing families.
While on Beaver Island, you must rent a car and explore. Don’t be shocked by their appearance – they are a part of the island experience.
Two car rental services operate on the island: Burtons Car Rental and Duffy’s Auto Rental. Maps of the island are available at the community center. It may be more fun to ask a local for sites to see. They may tell you of the Big Rock, the Big Tree, the Found Soles shoe tree, or the Bra Tree (which is still under development!). The Big Tree is a huge birch tree that is 250 years old.
Another lighthouse south of town is larger than the one at the entrance to St. James Harbor. You may climb to the top of the light, visit the keeper’s house, or walk down to the beach.
Central Michigan University has a biological station on the east shore of the island. From May to September, it does research, field biology work, hosts workshops, and gives classes to college students, high school students, and classes that senior citizens can audit. It’s worth a visit to see the campus.
Ferodor Protar’s home should be on any list of places to visit. He was a newspaper editor and actor who moved to Beaver Island in 1893 seeking solitude and a fresh start. Self-taught in pharmacology, he was sought after by his neighbors for medical help as there was no physician on the island at the time. He treated colds and many common ailments but not serious illnesses, all without charge.
It’s all about the people
The people of Beaver Island are friendly and humorous. While asking directions from a young high school girl one day we started talking about the local school. She said there were nine students in the senior class so everyone was in the top 10. However, next year there would be 11 seniors, so … .
It seems everyone on the island has a specialty. The local sheriff’s deputy makes pizzas for Monday Night Football. The former harbormaster makes world-famous crepes (they are good too). And there are social gatherings most weekends during the winter.
Old harbormaster and lifetime resident Glen told me a story of a newcomer who was asked if he was going to someone’s birthday party that weekend. The newcomer said he didn’t know the birthday person. The reply was “Well, it’s time you get to know him.” He went to the party and was welcomed.
Beaver Island is a great place to visit if you are looking for a laid back, easy-going, but interesting island.